EV vs ICE Calculator - Total Cost of Ownership Comparison

Two cars, one commute, five years of receipts

An EV costs more upfront. A gasoline car costs more to run. The real question is when the lines cross - and whether they cross at all for your mileage, your electricity rate and your insurance bracket. This calculator takes purchase price, energy costs, service and insurance for both drivetrains, then builds a year-by-year TCO table with a break-even marker. Optional: federal and state EV incentives reduce the purchase gap before the comparison starts.

How to use this calculator - step by step

EV purchase price - MSRP or used price. Check manufacturer websites for current pricing.
EV energy consumption - real-world kWh/100 km (EPA ratings are 10-20% optimistic).
Home vs public charging split - most drivers charge 70-90% at home. Public charging costs 2-4x more per kWh.
Home and public electricity prices - check your utility bill and local charger network pricing.
ICE purchase price - price of a comparable gasoline car in the same segment.
Fuel consumption and price - l/100 km from your trip computer, current pump price per liter.
Annual mileage - US average is 20,000-24,000 km/year. Higher mileage favors EVs.
Comparison period - 3 to 10 years. Longer periods favor EVs.
Insurance - EV insurance is typically 10-30% higher.
EV incentive - federal tax credit ($7,500) and/or state rebates, if applicable.

Quick start: A typical comparison takes 2 minutes. You need: both car prices, fuel consumption (from specs), your electricity rate (from utility bill), and annual mileage (from odometer or estimate). The calculator handles the rest.

Six scenarios that show when EV wins - and when it does not

Scenario 1: City commuter, 20,000 km/year
EV $40,000, 16 kWh/100 km, 90% home charging at $0.14/kWh. ICE $28,000, 7.5 l/100 km at $1.00/l.
Result: EV wins after 4.8 years. 5-year TCO: EV $52,600 vs ICE $53,500.

Scenario 2: Highway commuter, 35,000 km/year
EV $42,000, 19 kWh/100 km, 70% home at $0.14. ICE $30,000, 7 l at $1.00/l.
Result: EV wins after 3.2 years. 5-year savings: $5,200. High mileage accelerates break-even.

Scenario 3: Low mileage, 10,000 km/year
EV $40,000, 16 kWh/100 km, 90% home. ICE $28,000, 7.5 l at $1.00/l.
Result: EV never reaches break-even in 10 years. Annual savings ($630) too small to close the $12,000 price gap.

Scenario 4: With $7,500 federal tax credit
Same as Scenario 1 but with $7,500 incentive. Effective EV price: $32,500.
Result: EV wins after 2.1 years. 5-year savings: $8,400.

Scenario 5: Expensive electricity (California)
EV $40,000, 16 kWh, 70% home at $0.30/kWh, 30% public at $0.55/kWh. ICE $28,000, 7.5 l at $1.30/l.
Result: Break-even at 7.1 years. High electricity prices shrink the EV advantage significantly.

Scenario 6: Premium SUV, 25,000 km/year
EV $55,000, 22 kWh, 80% home at $0.14. ICE $48,000, 9.5 l at $1.00/l.
Result: EV wins after 3.6 years. Premium ICE burns more fuel, narrowing the price gap faster.

Running cost comparison - what you pay per year

Based on 20,000 km/year, compact segment, US average rates:

Cost category	EV	Gasoline	Difference
Energy/fuel	$530	$1,400	EV saves $870
Service	$400	$900	EV saves $500
Insurance	$1,800	$1,400	ICE saves $400
Total annual running cost	$2,730	$3,700	EV saves $970/yr

Break-even sensitivity - how each variable shifts the tipping point

Variable	EV-friendly value	Break-even	EV-hostile value	Break-even
Annual mileage	30,000 km	3.2 yr	10,000 km	Never
Home electricity rate	$0.08/kWh	3.8 yr	$0.30/kWh	7.1 yr
EV incentive	$7,500	2.1 yr	$0	4.8 yr
Gasoline price	$1.30/l	3.4 yr	$0.80/l	7.9 yr

FAQ - Frequently asked questions

How long does it take for an EV to pay for itself?

It depends on the price gap, mileage and electricity rate. With a $12,000 price difference and 20,000 km/year at average US rates, break-even is around 4.5-5 years. A $7,500 tax credit cuts that to under 2.5 years. Low mileage (under 12,000 km) may never reach break-even within a typical ownership period.

Why is EV insurance more expensive?

Three reasons: higher vehicle value (affects comprehensive premiums), costlier repairs (battery and electronics), and fewer qualified repair shops (longer repair times). The gap is typically 10-30% but varies by insurer and model. Shopping around can narrow this significantly.

Does the calculator include depreciation?

No. Depreciation is excluded because it depends on too many variables (model popularity, battery degradation, resale market). Generally, EVs have held value well in recent years, but this varies. For a complete picture, add estimated resale values to the TCO manually.

What about EV battery replacement cost?

Most EV batteries are warrantied for 8 years / 100,000 miles. Real-world data shows less than 2% of batteries need replacement within warranty. After warranty, a replacement costs $5,000-15,000 depending on the model, but prices are falling as production scales up.

Is charging at home really that much cheaper?

Yes. Home charging at $0.14/kWh costs about $0.03/km. Public DC fast charging at $0.45/kWh costs $0.08/km - still cheaper than gasoline ($0.07-0.10/km) but the margin shrinks. That is why the home/public charging split matters: a driver who charges 90% at home saves nearly $600/year more than one who charges 50% at public stations.

How accurate is this comparison?

The calculator provides an estimate within 10-15% of real costs, assuming stable fuel and electricity prices. It does not account for depreciation, tire wear differences (EVs wear tires 20-30% faster due to weight and instant torque), or registration fee differences. For maximum accuracy, use your actual utility bill, recent fuel receipts and insurance quotes.

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